In Malaysia, the renowned premium durian cultivar, Musang King, is facing a conundrum.
Some farmers are experimenting with making this durian sweeter to cater to Chinese consumers, which has displeased purists who cherish the traditional flavor profile that made Musang King famous.
Musang King is celebrated for its golden-hued flesh with a distinctive balance of sweetness and bitterness. However, industry insiders reveal that some durian growers have been attempting to tweak the flavor of this revered cultivar.
Actress Fan Bingbing sampling Musang King durian in Malaysia.
According to Dr. Zulhazmi Sayuti from the Horticulture Center of the Malaysian Agricultural Research and Development Institute, altering the taste of durian is scientifically feasible but complex. While genetic modifications can reduce bitterness, pinpointing the specific genes involved is a significant challenge.
He also underscores the importance of regulations and ethics, emphasizing that any genetic manipulation must undergo rigorous testing. “Malaysia maintains a stringent policy on genetically modified organisms, ensuring safety while promoting advancements in science and biotechnology,” he says.
Musang King durians are classified based on the age of the trees. This distinction is crucial because trees over 20 years old tend to produce fruit with a more pronounced bitterness. The experiments with flavor manipulation have sparked concerns within the industry.
A durian stall at a market in Malaysia.
Anna Teo, Secretary-General of the Durian Association, laments that many Musang King durians in the market today show signs of “diluted color and aroma.” While flavor can be altered through techniques like fermentation, she stresses that the focus should remain on maintaining the fruit’s quality rather than merely increasing its sweetness.
Lawrence Ting Siew Haw, President of the Malaysia Fruits Farmers’ Association Federation, notes that farmers are striving to enhance durian quality using organic fertilizers. “Since fruits cannot be manufactured in factories, farmers rely on organic methods to improve the taste of durians,” he says.
The unique flavor of Malaysian durians, characterized by a balance of sweetness and mild bitterness, sets them apart from the sweeter Thai durians, according to Mr. Ting—a distinction shaped by the country’s climate and soil.
While Malaysians relish this flavor profile, foreign consumers have different palates. Lee Pit Kheong, President of the Pahang Agriculture and Eco-Tourism Association, shares that first-time tasters from China often find Musang King durian too bitter and sometimes mistake it for being rotten.
Frozen Musang King durian sold at a supermarket in Beijing, China.
Stephen Chow, an experienced durian orchard owner, emphasizes that exporters must strive to meet the preferences of their buyers. “Farmers know which trees are under 10 years old and which ones are mature at 20 years old. If other countries prefer sweeter durians, then the sweeter durians will be exported there,” he says.
Chow mentions that the current demand from Chinese consumers is for thicker flesh with more segments. However, he hasn’t observed any specific requests to reduce bitterness.
The Federal Agricultural Marketing Authority (FAMA), under the Ministry of Agriculture and Food Security, has facilitated the expansion of the Musang King market since Malaysia began exporting frozen durian to China in 2011.
Malaysia received approval to export frozen whole durian in 2018, and starting last month, fresh whole durian from the country has been available in China.
Source: SCMP
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