Vietnamese Designer Transforms Discarded Pineapple Leaves, Corn Fibers, and Fruit Peels into Internationally Acclaimed Ethnic Fashion

From someone with virtually no connection to traditional fashion, designer Phạm Ngọc Anh has become the founder of La Phạm, a sustainable fashion brand synonymous with indigenous materials.

With La Phạm, she not only creates fashion products but also pioneers a journey to preserve and renew Vietnamese cultural values. Instead of following fast fashion trends, La Phạm chooses a bolder path: reviving forgotten materials like pineapple fiber, banana fiber, coconut fiber, and corn fiber to create modern, dynamic designs that still embody the Vietnamese soul. These garments are not just products but bridges between tradition and modernity, connecting local craftsmanship with international runways.

This journey is far from smooth. From the beginning, La Phạm faced numerous challenges: limited resources, a novel approach, and a market hesitant about sustainable fashion. But instead of giving up, Phạm Ngọc Anh chose to persevere, learn, and build an ecosystem around indigenous materials. Each trip to craft villages and every conversation with artisans deepened her understanding of fading traditional values. Thus, La Phạm became more than a brand—it’s a network connecting dozens of artisans and villages nationwide, reviving fabrics, silks, and textiles in contemporary designs.

As a former environmental researcher, what led you to fashion? Why did you focus on traditional clothing and indigenous materials in your designs?

My path to designing traditional clothing was serendipitous, as if guided by the universe. Before La Phạm, I co-founded a festival clothing brand in San Francisco with a close friend.

Honestly, I had no connection to the áo dài at that time. The turning point came when a Vietnamese woman asked me to design one. I’d only worn an áo dài twice—for my graduation and wedding. Those garments were worn once and then forgotten in a closet.

As an active person, I prioritize comfort and versatility in clothing. This made me rethink how the áo dài could be worn in daily life.

I envisioned áo dài designs for various occasions, suitable for all ages and styles. Thus, La Phạm was born. After nine years, that initial passion remains, fueling my journey.

Beyond áo dài, La Phạm now develops contemporary designs like jackets, dresses, and pants using indigenous natural materials, especially textiles from Vietnam’s ethnic groups.

What inspired your focus on materials like silk, hemp, and plant fibers?

Currently, we primarily use silk, green hemp fabric, and hand-dyed ethnic textiles. This choice stems from our clear mission: to revive Vietnam’s natural materials.

In this journey, I’ve connected with artisans and traditional weavers who share our passion for preserving indigenous values. This shared vision has built a strong ecosystem, safeguarding and promoting traditional materials.

Does La Phạm plan to experiment with new materials?

In the past five years, we’ve begun using pineapple fiber, with gradual annual growth. We’re also researching banana, coconut, corn, and spider silk fibers. These require technological investment to improve quality and production for the fashion industry.

We’re also excited about vegan leather from pineapple or fruit peels like mango. In developed countries, vegan materials are rising in demand, and Vietnam has a strong agricultural advantage. With the right investment, we can export not just raw materials but also processed goods.

How did you feel presenting Vietnamese culture on international runways?

Debuting at the UN-DRESS sustainable fashion show in Switzerland three years ago was nerve-wracking. It was a new experience, and I realized the gap between Vietnamese and global fashion. Beyond aesthetics, judges asked about carbon footprints, production processes, and certifications. Their focus on sustainability was rigorous and detail-oriented.

At that time, our textiles were handmade by ethnic artisans, passed down through generations. We had no standardized production. When asked about the origins of each thread, I saw the difference between Vietnam’s and the world’s approach to sustainability.

In Vietnam, “sustainability” is often spontaneous, lacking a clear certification system. Abroad, products undergo strict, transparent verification. This perspective shift forced me to rethink our approach.

Through international shows, we’ve gained insights into century-old brands, excelling in quality, creativity, and technology. This has sharpened our goal: to continuously learn and invest in elevating our standards.

Each international appearance has been a learning curve. Joining the global fashion market is a long journey, but every step counts. Knowing where we stand, embracing change, and persevering are key. That’s what makes me proud.

Have you ever had to compromise cultural details for technical or cost reasons? What Vietnamese elements remain non-negotiable?

We’ve never compromised our values for trends or profits. For La Phạm, each design preserves cultural heritage. We strive to maintain the authenticity of materials in every piece.

Since our founding, we’ve prioritized people and materials. Each design reflects the creator’s story and respects the wearer, suppliers, and workers. This commitment to authenticity and respect has been our foundation.

Our material strategy emphasizes local resources. Only when domestic supply falls short do we import, ensuring the highest quality to maintain our Vietnamese identity.

How can the fashion industry move toward genuine sustainability amid greenwashing concerns?

Beyond technical solutions, education is key. Raising awareness about fast fashion’s impact is essential. Informed consumers make responsible choices, driving sustainable practices.

When people understand their purchasing power, they’ll demand better. This shift in consciousness will create a sustainable fashion ecosystem, where all stakeholders share responsibility.

How does La Phạm address the high cost of sustainable materials?

I used to buy cheaply, only to discard items quickly. Now, I value quality over quantity. Living in Switzerland, I’ve learned that investing in durable goods is cost-effective in the long run.

Our customers keep La Phạm pieces for years, often choosing them over other brands. This loyalty proves our products’ enduring value.

With 20% annual customer growth and minimal marketing, we focus on product quality. About 80% of new customers come through word-of-mouth, and most return. This sustainable growth reflects our commitment to value over profit.

How can Vietnamese fashion continue to shine globally?

Innovation is key to preserving cultural heritage. While museums preserve artifacts, we must create new products and processes that resonate with modern audiences. La Phạm transforms traditional materials into contemporary designs, appealing to all ages and markets.

What’s next for La Phạm?

We’ll continue our sustainable path, improving quality and expanding our ecosystem to include more artisans and villages. Collaboration is key to our long-term vision.